The Battery Centre Evesham

Maintaining and changing a battery

We do offer free fitting on batteries purchased from our store, however, if you wish to change the battery yourself, please read these guidelines first.

Required Tools.
Set of metric spanners
10/13mm sockets + ratchet and 8" extension (if the spanners won’t fit around the terminal attachments)
A flat head screw driver (if the terminals are a little difficult to remove)
Piece of course glass paper
Protective goggles and gloves
A cloth or rag

Locate the battery.
Depending on your make and model, this could be anywhere so it best to check the owner’s manual for the exact location if you are unsure. More and more manufacturers are locating the batteries in other parts of the car other than under the bonnet (some Mercedes and Volvo models are located in the boot, for example). In most cases, however, the battery is usually situated under the bonnet on either the right or left hand side or just under the windscreen.

Disconnect the terminals.
In order to remove the battery, you first have to disconnect the battery terminals. You should always start with the negative terminal first. Select the appropriate size spanner (this is usually either 10 or 13mm) and loosen the bolt on the side of the clamp (you may not be able to get a spanner on due to space issues. In this case use a socket). Once the clamp is loose you should be able to remove it from the battery post. If the terminal is still stiff, take your flat head screw driver and prize the terminal connection up and off, taking care not to crack or fracture the casing of the battery in case acid is spilled.
Repeat this step for the positive terminal taking care as mentioned above, not to touch the spanner to any other part of the vehicle.
With both terminal clamps now removed you may want to clean them with a rag and then give them a good scrubbing with glass paper (inside and out) to get the best possible connection you can to the new battery (if the terminals are badly corroded, then replace them also)

Remove the battery clamp/bracket.
The majority of batteries are held in place by a bracket or clamp and in order to remove the battery you will first need to remove it. Simply use the correct sized spanner or socket, undo the bolt/nut and remove.

Remove the old battery.
With the clamp now removed you can remove the old battery. Take note which way round the battery sits in the tray to ensure the new one is installed correctly. Once the battery is removed, check the condition of the battery tray. If there are signs of corrosion you will need to clean this area before the new battery is sited in the tray. The best way to clean any corrosion caused by leaking battery acid is with a baking soda and water mix, Alternatively, warm water is suffice, as long as copious quantities are used. Please take care not to cause too much splashing around the engine bay.

Fit the new battery.
This is pretty much the reverse process of removing the old one. Place the battery in the tray, taking care to ensure you have it the right way round. Re fit the holding clamp/bracket and clamp the battery down (be careful not to over tighten it) and finally, re-fit and tighten the terminals (remember, positive first and negative last). Make sure that the terminal clamps are tight on the battery posts, though not too tight to cause stress damage to the terminal or clamp.

Test the installation.
Once everything is connected and you are sure there are no tools or covers etc loose in the engine bay, you can start the engine. If the vehicle does not start or has no ignition, check the connections on the battery terminals.

Cautionary Notes.
Please note: This is a general guide and is not specific to any particular make or model of vehicle. For more detailed information on your own particular car, please consult a workshop manual, owners’ handbook, or seek advice from the dealer for your specific make and model!
If you have recently driven your vehicle, it is advisable to leave it for at least an hour for the engine and other components to cool down.
When dealing with a cars battery, the obvious danger is electricity, but this is not the only one. Batteries contain Sulphuric Acid which is highly corrosive and harmful and it also produces a flammable gas. Always work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective gloves and eyewear as a precaution.
In the event of any leaks from the battery, cover with baking soda. Also be very aware when loosening the clamp retaining nut on the positive (+) side of the battery not to touch the spanner against the body of the car as you can get a nasty shock! If you are unsure about this please seek expert advice.
Obviously during this task, you will have to disconnect your cars battery. By doing so you may cause the loss of any “settings” that have been stored e.g. the stereo presets and/or security code, electrically operated seat positions and more importantly alarm and key fob settings! Always check with your vehicles handbook or the Main Dealer if you are not sure, and make sure you have a list of any codes beforehand, otherwise there may be a cost involved from your dealer to re-set any unknown codes.

Old Battery Disposal

Please be sure to dispose of your old battery in the correct manner as it is against the law to simply discard it. We do offer a free disposal service for any of your old batteries whether purchased from us or not. Recycling centres will take these for you as well.

Warranty conditions explained

All of our lead acid automotive batteries are built to the highest standards. They are manufactured, in most cases, to correspond with vehicle manufacturer’s requirements and specifications. Nevertheless, it is important to understand that: A wet battery is 'alive'. Whether it is in service or in storage it has a finite life span. If stored in a wet (filled) condition, all batteries will slowly self-discharge.

Remember ‘the higher the ambient (storage) temperature, the greater the rate of self-discharge.’

To ensure that batteries are not allowed to discharge to the point where they are either damaged (sulphated) or so that they are incapable of starting the vehicle or operating equipment, regular voltage checks should be made (Monthly) .

Batteries with a voltage of 12.4v or below should be recharged. Recharging must not be effected by means of a rapid charger. Ideally a recharge rate of 1/10th of the battery’s capacity should be applied for up to 12 hours. At the end of this period, a fully charged battery will read over 12.65v and all cells should be gassing freely.

Remember’ if a battery has vent plugs, these should always be removed before charging.’

Non-manufacturing Faults

Sulphation - This is not a manufacturing fault.
If a battery is allowed to stand in a discharged state for an excessive amount of time, a chemical reaction takes place, which can permanently impair performance - this is sulphation. Sulphation can be seen as a fine white/grey coating on the plates. In most cases this signifies irreversible damage and the battery will not be serviceable. This damage can occur either in storage or if the battery is installed in a vehicle (or equipment) that is not used for a period of time, for example a tractor, motorcycle, or boat. Even a car or truck that is stored with the battery connected can still damage the battery in this way. This is because there is a permanent drain on the battery from the clock, alarm etc. As a result the level of charge in a battery falls, and after a period of time sulphation will build up on the plates. The sulphation (lead sulphate) hinders the chemical reaction between the acid (electrolyte) and the active mass (lead compound) in the plates and prevents the battery from operating as normal.

Wear and Tear - This is not a manufacturing fault.
During the charge and discharge cycle, material from the battery plates (active mass) is in motion, through the electrochemical reaction that produces electricity. Every time the battery goes through a charge and discharge cycle, a small amount of the active mass is lost from the plates. Because the ultimate life of a battery depends on so many factors, it is impossible to stipulate a minimum/maximum life expectancy. This process of normal ageing through the charge and discharge cycle will eventually cause the battery to lose capacity, and it will come to the point where the battery can no longer start the vehicle/equipment.

Deep cycle charging - This is not a manufacturing fault.
A battery only has a finite number of cycles (x) it can go through before it loses its capacity to perform. Vehicles with high usage such as taxi’s, minicabs, trucks, and buses will often subject the battery to its x number of cycles but over a much shorter time. As a result, batteries on these vehicles can display the above symptoms after 12-24 months.

Deep cycling - This is not a manufacturing fault.
As mentioned above, every time a battery goes through a charge and discharge cycle a small amount of the material from the plates is lost. If a battery is subjected to deep discharging (i.e. over 40%) and then rapid charging, this process is accelerated. Additionally, if during the recharge the battery is not adequately compensated for the discharge cycle, the battery will quickly exhibit loss of performance. Even after recharging the voltage will be low (under 12.4v) but the cells will generally give even readings.

Overcharging - This is not a manufacturing fault.
If the regulator is not set properly, then the battery can be subjected to an excessive charge. If left unchecked the battery will overheat and will start to evaporate the electrolyte. The overcharging will cause the accelerated break-up of the active mass on the plates and the battery will lose performance. This is generally obvious from the examination of the battery - the acid levels will be very low, and quite often a black coating will be visible on the filler caps.

Physical damage - This is not a manufacturing fault.
If the battery is fitted incorrectly, if the connector leads are hammered onto the terminals, or if the leads are not properly fastened, the battery will have obvious damage to the casing or the terminals.

Incorrect application - This is not a manufacturing fault.
The batteries recommended by The Battery Centre, are those equal to or above the original equipment specification. Fitting a smaller or less powerful battery will result in a shorter service life and earlier failure, which will generally manifest itself as deep cycling/premature wear and tear.

Manufacturing Faults

Due to the high demands of the OEM market, and taking into account the technical and manufacturing standards adhered to by our suppliers, the rate of genuine manufacturing faults is negligible.

Short circuit/dead cell -This is a manufacturing fault.
This is typically seen in a battery with a short (less than 12 months) service life. One cell will show a dramatically lower specific gravity (SG) reading than the others. The affected cell will boil visibly under a high rate discharge test. In some cases it may also be visible as a sulphated cell (see above). The remaining cells will show a good SG reading of 1.26 or over.

Internal Break -This is a manufacturing fault.
The battery will have good SG readings but no voltage.

Summary
Provided the right battery, in the right condition is used for the right application, the number of battery problems encountered will be minimal. All batteries have a finite life span, which is governed by the conditions under which the battery operates. Battery failures caused by sulphation, wear and tear, or deep cycling are not manufacturing faults and are not covered by the manufactures guarantee. It is important to remember that under normal operating conditions, a battery cannot become discharged on its own.
The reason for this discharge is normally attributable to:
Malfunctioning alternator, regulator, or starter motor
Slipping fan belt
Electrical fault
Excessive use of electrical consumers - car phones, air conditioning etc
Long standing time without recharge
Boot light/glove box malfunction
Vehicle lights being left on

If a battery is consistently used/left in a discharged condition, it will eventually reach a condition where even a prolonged recharge will not return to its original condition. This is classified as deep discharge/undercharging and is not a manufacturing fault. If a battery is continuously deeply discharged by, for example, stop-start motoring and heavy use of the car phone, air conditioning etc., and is then not adequately recharged, it will lose its performance relatively quickly. This is called deep cycling/wear and tear and is not a manufacturing fault.

*Subject to our current sale and warranty conditions), and the preceding test and recharge procedures